The best time is now

Dear traveler, 

How many steps are there until the end of the world?

Well, I guess it depends where you're at, right? In our case, it was around a two hour bus ride. Or was it more? To be honest, I think I even dozed off at some point, but now it's the time to get off the bus. 

A strong wind greets us as soon as we step out in the small port of Muxia. 

I have to admit that I wasn't expecting a world's end to look like this, but let's explore a bit and I'll decide later.

We leave our luggage at the albergue and we start walking on the town's small alleys. The wind is still strong and the sea is quite turbulent. I'm happy to see it as it's been a while until I saw it for the last time. The shore is covered with green plants and some gigantic white flowers that seem to be hanging quite well despite the strong wind. Mamarmot tells me that those are calla lillies and it's the first time she sees them in the wilderness.

As we move forward we see all kinds of wild flowers, pink or yellow. I really love this place.

Before us, it seems like the path ends... and it's exactly what's happening. A lighthouse stands tall in the wind and waves.

This is the role of a lighthouse, actually, right? To hold on no matter what. Mamarmot is fascinated and skips around like a kid. She loves any lighthouse she sees. Some time ago, she wanted to go in the search for lighthouses on England's coast, but this is a story for another time.

Until then, we are here, at the end of the world, waiting for the sunset at the sea which is called...

-"Mamarmot, what sea is this?"

-"Marmot, it's not a sea, but the Atlantic ocean."

Really? Well this is something huuuuge. I saw it once in an atlas and it was lots and loooots of blue. I can't believe we reached the ocean!

Many people have gathered here to wait for the sunset. People are talking about a special event that happens today, something that occurs just once in a while. Something related to the wind and the sky which normally shouldn't be that bright during this weather. 

-"We'll get to see a fantastic sunset", someone behind us says.

I can't wait!

Let's find ourselves a perfect spot for this, right? Although, wherever you might sit here you cannot have a bad view.

The path leads towards a rocky peak that Mamarmot says it's called Monte Corpiño. The path that ascends on it seems like part of a fairy tale.

But what we find at the top is truly out of this world. Or two worlds. Here the world splits in two.

Or actually...the ocean splits in two. The end of the world is actually a land stripe surrounded by the ocean. Wow, I didn't think I would ever see such a thing!

We can't get enough of this view but as the sun is about to set, we decide to descend back towards the lighthouse.

Apparently, it's not only the lighthouse that stands on the lookout on the ocean's shore but also a church that is getting hit by a wave from time to time.

The sun starts to descend slowly and Mamarmot can't stand still...as usual. 

She would sit and watch or she would take pictures, she either wants to go at the lighthouse, either on the rocks. What can you do, this is her. But she really managed to stand still and lose herself in the sunset light for a few minutes.

With the sunset comes the chill breeze and we lose ourselves in our thoughts.

Thoughts that come like these big waves and break on the Costa da Morte. Thoughts about the Camino and about us. Thoughts about us, these guys that are not the same as before anymore. As our soul is marked by the shell's sign now and it will never leave us. It will stay with us for our entire lives in the small things but also in the great adventures that will follow. 

I wonder how come Muxia chose us? To come all the way to this place, as there were no busses left towards Finisterre. To come here now, just in time to witness a rare phenomenon. Just here, just now. 

Many things that we couldn't explain happened on this trail and this moment is only one of those.

The darkness settles in fast over the small town but the sound of the waves continues to accompany us on the way towards the albergue, during dinner and later on, on the path towards the land of dreams.

The exhaustion of the walk towards Santiago has took its toll as we all slept like logs. But today is a new day and I woke up pretty energized. Where to?

-"Marmot, we're gonna get some breakfast and walk around until 14 when we take the bus back to Santiago."

What a weird feeling! I was actually hoping that Mamarmot would tell me "come on, gear up as we'll hit the road to the next town."

But then let's explore Muxia!

The weather is not as friendly as yesterday. The wind blows stronger, the sky is grey and tiny raindrops are falling from all directions. It's not actually the kind of rain my folks taught me to love but I promise I'll try.

On our way we see the milestone indicating 0. For so long this milestone has guided us and now it tells us that this is the end .

A beach with silky sand that seems to have appeared out of nowhere invites us to play. The rocks are filled with shells, small snails and colorful algae. It's a great place to search for all kinds of interesting stuff.

It doesn't even matter that the wind is blowing and small water droplets are falling, I'm very happy out here. Does this mean that I started to love rain?

Mamarmot sits on the shore, with her thoughts lost in the distance. I go and give her a hug.

-"Mamarmot, would you rather be walking on the Camino now?"

-"No, Marmot. I'm good with where I'm now. Everything I ever wanted was to be right here, right now."

I didn't quite get that. But I do have time to think about this later on, in the bus towards Santiago. 

Soon we say goodbye to the beach of wonders and we go once more to see the mysterious lighthouse. It's still there, strong, no matter the weather. 

Once I get on the bus, I doze off instantly. Maybe from playing around earlier, or because of the wind. The only thing I remember is that I woke up at Santiago.

-"What did I miss, Mamarmot?"

-"Not much, Marmot. It was dark and rainy outside. No trace of any pilgrim today."

Rain follows us to Santiago as well, on the entire way towards the albergue. But once we get here, we're goood...

Couldn't say the same about our clothes, though, as we're dripping wet and as we unpack we realize that our backpacks did not handle the rain that well. Every dry thing we had is now, oh well...wet. It reminds me of one day on the Camino, although, back then I think our sleeping bags were still dry. Oh well, hopefully they will get dried. 

As I don't have any dry clothes left, we can't go for a walk. However, Mamarmot wants to wander for a while before she says goodbye to this place so neither the rain, nor the wet clothes will stop her.

She returns with dinner and we talk and tell stories until late in the night. Just the three of us, as we were in the beginning on the Camino. And then I remember about what she said earlier on the beach and I think I understand. 

Yes, we're going home tomorrow. The journey has ended. All our clothes are hanged on the cold heaters of the room and the sleeping bag is dripping. I was unable see a bit from Santiago de Compostela. But with all that, I wouldn't want to be anywhere else than right here, right now. The best time is now!