- Trail type: point to point
- Trail name: Camino Frances
- Period: September - October 2018
- Starting point: Estella
- Trail blazing:
- Trail description:
Ziua 9: Castrojeriz – Boadilla del Camino
Ziua 10: Boadilla del Camino – Carrión de los Condes
Ziua 11: Carrión de los Condes – Terradillos de los Templarios
Ziua 12: Terradillos de los Templarios – Bercianos del Real Camino
Ziua 13: Bercianos del Real Camino – Mansilla de las Mulas
Ziua 14: Mansilla de las Mulas – Léon
- Distance: ~351.4km
- Duration: 14 days, ~7-8 hrs/day with breaks
- Equipment: Summer long trip/pilgrimage equipment
- Map
- Total elevation gain: 2630 m
When
- We chose end of September as we already knew how hot the weather is earlier but we also wanted to experience a different season.
- We allocated an average of a 27 km walk per day with a small buffer, that means an average of 28 days for the entire trail. The previous experience taught us to take one day at a time and stop calculating everything until the end.
Transportation
- We resumed the trail from where we left it, more precisely, from Estella.
- We took a plane to Madrid and from Madrid, we took a bus to Estella.
- To return, there is a bus network with multiple points on the Camino, with routes towards the big cities. We chose Madrid.
Accommodation
- For the first night, we booked a room at a private Albergue in Estella. As said last time, you cannot have two stamps from the same municipal or parish albergue on your passport. therefore we chose a private albergue.
- For the rest of the trip, we stayed in all types of albergues along the way.
- More details about Albergues in the previous section, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Estella
Equipment
- More details about equipment in the previous section, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Estella
- More details at the equipment section
- Compared to last time, we learned to pack lighter and we did not carry anything that was not useful last time, mainly, the tent, the isoprene mats and other camping accessories.
Daily budget
- Accommodation + food: ~35 euro per day on average for 2 adults and one child
- On some days, the expenses were higher, depending on where we slept and what meal options we had.
Food
- Usually, we had breakfast at the albergue and around 10-11 we would stop on our way to a coffee shop/store.
- We don't eat much of the food we carry with us in our backpack, having plenty of options on the way.
- More details here.
Useful:
- The Camino Pilgrim App, available on Google Play
- The Pilgrim's guide by John Brierley available online and in some bookstores
- There are plenty of resources available online: blogs, Youtube channels, Facebook groups.
Things I wanted to know before I left:
- That it's alright to have a one day break. Somehow, we knew that already but it was much more difficult to actually do it.
What I missed along the way:
- Sun screen - again!
What went well:
- We returned better and much more prepared
- Compared to last time, we bonded much more with people
- We explored new places
What went bad:
- The plan we made at home did not fit reality and that was physically and spiritually painful - again, and although we knew that already, in our minds, the idea that this time we are going to reach the end was taking shape. Things were different though.
What we learned
- Way less means way more
- Acceptance. It was difficult to accept a return once more, but I knew that this will only open new perspectives for us.
- Slow down and enjoy what's around us more
- Adaptability. Again and again!
- Love the journey, not the destination - we learned that from last time, but this time we actually felt it and applied it.
- How to move forward
- How to feel everything more intensely, how to live in the present and take one day at a time.
- More about different cultures and customs. We experienced things we didn't usually do just to try to connect the Camino experience directly to our soul.
Dear traveler,
Returning home was very difficult. The bus that took us to Madrid, drove for a while along the Camino, before it turned south and left the shell behind. Seeing the pilgrims that were hitting the road at first light towards a new place, closer and closer to the field of stars, it seemed quite unnatural that we were on a bus.
I hardly managed to lift Mamarmot's mood, but once we reached home, things changed. We were already planning our return on the path of shells, a much more beaten path of shells this time, although we had more than one year of waiting.
-"Mamarmot, how could I have that much patience..why can't we return earlier?"
-"Marmot, there's nothing to wait for. Camino is here, now, in our day to day and in every step we make. In every hike and walk under the clear sky. In every dew drop and ray of sun. "
Okay, okay. Mamarmot always has a way with words. Although I understand what she's saying, it's still hard for me to wait. I got used to walking, to the orange juice and potato pie. I don't know how I'm going to make it without the potato pie.
Months have passed but we were always up to something. We adventured more often on mountain and hill paths, to quench our longing for Camino. The shell kept on hanging from our backpacks. Every gust of wind made me think about the windmills from the iron pilgrims hill. Every olive, made me think of the olive orchards. Every grass blade, at endless fields. If kept the pie out of my mind it actually felt like nothing changed.
Time came to buy the plane tickets, then the bus ones and then, without noticing, time to get our backpacks ready once more for the way towards the end of earth.
The departure day was a very happy day for me. And I believe for my folks too. Much more prepared than last time and with our lessons learned, we embark on the plane towards Madrid.
Out on the window I gaze towards the blue sea and the small islands in it. Spain's coast is slowly getting closer.
Then the long bus trip took us back again to our way. In the corner of my eye, I see one of the milestones on which, yellow on blue, the dear shell sign lies encrusted.
We are in Estella again, a beautiful city which we missed. I don't think there is a better feeling than this return.
On the streets, a carnival with fireworks is taking place. It seems they are celebrating our return as well. This is what I like to think. My feet are tingling when I see the shell and i want to hear again that cracking sound of stones under my feet. It feel like only a few days have passed since we left and not more than a year.
I feel happy. I feel like home.
I'm so excited for tomorrow that I'm not sure I'll be able to sleep. Either that, or the cake I ate earlier had too much chocolate. Wait, what am I saying? There's no such thing as too much chocolate!
With this thought in my mind I tuck in my sleeping bag. This time I brought Fulgeraș with my, my favorite plush toy, who will be me my companion on the road. I promised I will carry it in my backpack.
Before sleep carries me away, I list in my mind what I put in my backpack, hoping that I forgot nothing : Fulgeraș, the shell, the passport, the playing cards, Fulgeraș, the sh.., pa..
Marmot statistics
Joy
Marmot was looking forward to return on the path of shells. At 5, she's already starting to make some friends among the other pilgrims, she is happy and she discovers her own habits that help her recharge after a long day.
Sights
The trail is continuously changing, from mountain areas with spectacular views, to small cities, then to yellow fields bordered only by the blue sky. On this segment we also walk through the Spanish Meseta.
Difficulty
The difficulty degree of the trail can be given by the much more barren area we are crossing. Still, here we don't have that much elevation gain, walking on much more even segments, with small exceptions.
Boredom
We play all kinds of games and share stories so boredom does not appear. Also, Marmot starts listening to stories or music in her headphones while she walks and that helps her forget that she is tired. Here she also starts counting..poles, cows, flowers, seconds, etc.
Drama
Small drama appear when it's too hot or we get tired and lose our patience. Or when the rain doesn't want to give us a break.
EN 
RO