• Trail type: point to point
  • Trail name: Camino Frances
  • Period: April - May 2019
  • Starting point: Léon
  • Trail blazing:

  • Trail description:

Day 1: Léon – Villar de Mazarife

Ziua 2: Villar de Mazarife – Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias

Ziua 3: Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias – El Ganso

Day 4: El Ganso – El Acebo

Day 5: El Acebo – Camponaraya

Day 6: Camponaraya – Trabadelo

Day 7: Trabadelo – O Cebreiro

Day 8: O Cebreiro – Triacastela

Day 9: Triacastela – Sarria

Day 10: Sarria – Portomarin

Day 11: Portomarin – Palas del Rei

Day 12: Palas del Rei – Ribadiso da Baixo

Day 13: Ribadiso da Baixo – O Pedrouzo

Day 14: O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela

When

  • This time we chose to return on the Camino during springtime and we were pleasantly surprised. 
  • We lowered the daily average of walked kilometers somewhere to 23, having an average of 14 days for finishing the entire trail. The previous experience taught us to take one day at a time and stop calculating everything until the end. Also, we realized that the days we walked more than 30km were becoming exhausting for the marmot and we chose to lower the pace.

Transportation

  • We resumed the trail from Léon. 
  • We took a plane to Madrid and from Madrid, we took a bus to Léon.
  • To return, there is a bus network with multiple points on the Camino, with routes towards the big cities. We chose Madrid.

Accommodation

  • For the first night, we booked a room at a private Albergue in Léon. As said last time, you cannot have two stamps from the same municipal or parish albergue on your passport. therefore we chose a private albergue.
  • In the Galician area, which we'll be going through now, in most towns there are municipal albergues, that have a fixed price (6 euros/bed/person) and a standard stamp. But as last time, we stayed in all types of albergues along the way.
  • More details about Albergues in the first section, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Estella

Equipment

Daily budget

  • Accommodation + food: ~35 euro per day on average for 2 adults and one child
  • Once we reach Galicia, the expenses are quite the same every day, especially on accommodation.

Food

  • Usually, we had breakfast at the albergue and around 10-11 we would stop on our way to a coffee shop/store.
  • We don't eat much of the food we carry with us in our backpack, having plenty of options on the way.
  • More details here.

Useful:

  • The Camino Pilgrim App, available on Google Play
  • The Pilgrim's guide by John Brierley available online and in some bookstores
  • There are plenty of resources available online: blogs, Youtube channels, Facebook groups.

Things I wanted to know before I left:

  • This time we had our homework done when we hit the road, with our minds clear and our souls wide open. That's it.

What I missed along the way:

  • Is it possible to forget the sunscreen for the third time? No. But it's possible not to bring it on purpose because you imagine that in a much rainy season, it won't be necessary. Big mistake.

What went well:

  • We returned better and much more prepared
  • Compared to last time, we got closer to people, but also to ourselves. We searched more within us, in how to work with ourselves and how to be better every day.
  • We explored new places, fascinating and although we ended an adventure, we actually opened up a gate towards new ones.
  • After two experiences in which we planned things, now we took things one day at a time and we fully enjoyed the process.

What went bad:

  • The sunburn kind of damaged us and it took a few days until we felt better.

What we learned

  • Way less means way more
  • Acceptance. Everyone has his own story to tell. Be kind.
  • Slow down and enjoy what's around us more
  • Adaptability. Again and again!
  • We love the journey, not the destination - we realized it, we practiced it and now it became part of our lives.
  • How to move forward
  • How to feel everything more intensely, how to live in the present and take one day at a time.
  • More about different cultures and customs.
  • More about people. We built strong relationships with few people that eventually became part of our family.
  • More about ourselves. Camino can be just a trail you walk on or it can be a path to your own self, which will show you things you did not knew,
Tale of the trail

Dear traveler,

I'm not even sure where to start, but be aware that it's going to be a long story. 

We woke up with the sound of rain in our ears and the usual rustling of pilgrims, who were getting ready to get wet as soon as they walked out the door.

-"I don't want to get rained on again!", I tell Mamarmot as I pull my sleeping bag over my eyes.

-"Don't worry, marmot, it will be fine!"

We find Berndt in the small hallway and my folks say goodbye to him and Buen Camino. 

-"Never stop travelling! It was a pleasure to meet you!", he tells me and then he disappears out the door.

Such strange words! For sure we're going to meet again after a few days.

The rain mellows a bit until we hit the road but the town is pretty grey and gloomy.

I wish I could've stayed in bed some more, but, what can we do..I'm trying to find the shell through this big and grey town and get on our way.

-"This way, marmot."

Mamarmot takes us on all sorts of streets where I cannot see any kind of shell. We finally enter a big window building that looks like a train station. 

-"Look, Marmot, we've seen that in the past days you were more and more tired and cranky and we think it's better to take a break for one day. Today will be raining anyway and it won't be a pleasant walk. We'll take the bus to a bigger city and we'll see from there."

Somehow, what Mamarmot says doesn't sound right. I know Mamarmot, and I know she won't accept to ride the bus on a part of the Camino. And to be honest, I wouldn't like that either. That means just that...most likely we'll be going home...but, she doesn't want to tell me that because she thinks she will upset me. I am sad, especially when I look at her and I see her struggling to control her tears. But on the other hand..the idea of returning home makes me happy. I miss home so much!

The bus takes us to Astorga, a city we should have reached after two days. 

We find ourselves an albergue and then we take a walk in the city. A city full of chocolate in every store, with beautiful streets and a castle that seems out of a fairy tale.

-"Mamarmot, am I right that we'll go home from here?"

-"Most likely, marmot", says Mamarmot, as two tears drop from her eyes.

-"And how about Santiago de Compostela?"

-"Well, we'll return, of course. And we'll reach Santiago too. There is a reason why we feel we must return now. Camino has something else prepared for us, something it cannot show us now. Something for which we must wait for a little while."

-"We'll be walking this this part we made by bus, right?"

-"Yes, it would be a pity not to. Who knows what wonders are hidden from Léon to this point."

Mamarmot's words give me a peaceful feeling. I look around. From where we are staying you can see the mountains. We are somewhere above the city and the sky cleared a bit now. After a few grey days, the sky offers us a wonderful show. The clouds tell me that what we chose is good and that it waits for our return. 

Mamarmot shows me the passport. With the last stamp we received today, we closed its first side. A story page was written and a new story will follow.

The next day, we took the long way to Madrid by bus. It wasn't easy. I felt like telling my folks to stop at Léon and start walking again. And I know Mamarmot would've agreed. But the thought that tonight I will be playing with my kittens was also a beautiful one. 

Back home, we thought quickly about when we could return. My folks decided our return will be after only six months, so we won't wait for too long and they already bought the plane tickets for Madrid.

In the meantime, we've been talking to Pai who gave us news about her pilgrimage. She told us about how much rain and hail she endured up to Santiago de Compostela. It seems that a hurricane passed through the coast area, hence the weird weather. But she finally reached the destination.

I wonder if Berndt reached it.

On Christmas, I received a letter from him where he was mentioning how his walk went. With rain and hail as well. With big pain in his legs. With many breaks. But he finally got there. And I had the surprise to receive from Santa exactly what I asked for. Oh Berndt, it's so nice you put my letter in the express mail for the North Pole!

Months passed by and it was not easy to quench our longing for the Camino. We managed to soothe it a little with our mountains and colored hills. 

But the day came again to board onto a plane to Madrid and the long bus ride. 

And here we are in Léon. Happy, excited, joyful. Ready for a new adventure. The city is not as gloomy as we left it last time. Now it's sunny and beautiful and it seems like the same sky invites us to start walking. It's just colder now, but my folks got me ready from home with multiple layers. 

Every smell and sound seem familiar. Although we are coming from home, I feel as if I came..home. I am happy and I can't wait to see what's next, as no day on the Camino is as the previous one. Or like the next one. 

This time I came without Fulgeraș. But I have Ursulic with me, a small plush bear with a heart on its shirt. He wanted to see how Camino is like.

It's time to go to bed now and I can't sleep again. I've got so many questions and curiosities in my head. But they can wait until tomorrow.

Starting tomorrow, we'll be walking on the path of shells once more!

Marmot statistics

Joy

Marmot is joyful and happy, ready for a new adventure.

Sights

The trail goes a lot through the mountains and through the most greener region of Spain, Galicia. The sights are fantastic, pretty different from what we've seen so far.

Difficulty

We have quite an elevation gain to cover this time but we take things more slowly, we make the trails shorter and it does not seem that difficult anymore.

Boredom

As last time, we count on audio tales and music to chase boredom away. The shorter trails are contributing to this quite a lot but also the interesting sights and the people we meet along the way.

Drama

Surely that small drama appear, as we can't go without it. But we learned to accept them and move on much quicker.