• Trail type: loop
  • Period: August 2021
  • Starting point: Bâlea Tunel mountain refuge
  • Trail blazing:

  • Trail description:

Bâlea Tunel mountain refuge - crossroad with red stripe, near Fereastra Bâlei.

Crossroad with red stripe, near Fereastra Bâlei – Vârful Iezerul Caprei(2417m) – Șaua Capra – Capra Lake

 Vânătarea lui Buteanu Peak(2507m) Capra Peak(2494m)Văiuga Saddle

Văiuga valley -crossroad with blue stripe (Bâlea Lake to the left, Netedu Saddle to the right)

Crossroad with blue stripe (Bâlea Lake to the left, Netedu Saddle to the right) - Bâlea Lake

 First segment of the trail, which ascends behind the mountain refuge

First segment of descent from Iezerul Caprei Peak is a slightly steep path covered with scree

The ascent to Vânătarea lui Buteanu Peak

The descent through Văiuga Valley to its base is steep and covered with scree.

  • Map (without the tunnel segment we crossed by foot)
  • Elevation gain: 520 m

  • Accommodation: Bâlea Tunel mountain refuge

Price: 45 ron/night/person. A reservation should be done beforehand, otherwise you might find it fully booked.

In the room where we slept is very hot, but it seems that in the big room there is also a comfortable temperature. A sleeping bag is not required, we actually slept on ours.

The host is very friendly, you can have dinner and breakfast here and the kitchen is open starting 8 a.m.

Accommodation capacity of around 20 beds (a bigger room with many beds and a smaller room with 4 double beds).

How to get there (from Bucharest): A1 Highway > DN7C (Transfăgărășan) road, left from the tunnel that leads to Lake Bâlea, on the direction Pitești > Sibiu.

Parking place right next to the refuge.

You can find Bâlea Tunel refuge on Waze but it will take you a bit off, at Capra cabin. Google Maps is more reliable.

Tale of the trail

Dear traveler,

I return today in the Făgăraș mountains, which make Mamarmot feel like a grain of sand on a wild beach, or at least, that's what she tells me.

Mamarmot promised me that tonight we will sleep with the mountains at our feet.

We were warmly welcomed in the small mountain refuge, where, if you're lucky enough, you can get a bed with a view to the Transfăgărășan road.

The bed with a view was not empty but we were greeted by a friendly host, eager to share with us the goodies they had prepared.

Not only one of the best sour soups I've ever tasted, but it seems that a friend of the host was celebrating his birthday and he thought he would share a delicious chocolate cake with us.
The mood reminded us of distant places, from long ago, and kilometers blown by the wind and sand, with tired pilgrims, tucked in their sleeping bags as soon as dusk settles in, with ambitious plans for the next day. And the feeling came from the people's kindness but also because we shared our room with two Dutch travelers.

After I went outside with Mamarmot to photograph the starry sky, we all went to sleep. The three of us tucked in the top bunked bed. I love the top bed!

Molda, the dog who owns this valley, was our alarm clock for the day, starting to bark loudly, probably because of a bear she felt nearby, at the crack of dawn.
Wherever we are and regardless of how hurried we are, my parents will never sacrifice a 5 minute coffee, and I gladly enjoy a hot chocolate or some tea.

I would've played a little bit more with Molda, but we have to leave so we head to the path marked with a red triangle. My parents say we are heading to Vânătarea lui Buteanu, but they were never here before also. For me it's quite fun because we have some places where we need to climb, but the path is quite difficult and I'm easily getting tired, of course. I have small legs and these parents are hurrying me. I would take a break but I don't want to make them sad. Maybe I can just let them know for now.

Wow, up next we have a waterfall which we must cross. How cool! And everything around us is covered in flowers and green grass.

We've been alone on the trail since we left and I don't see any movement in the distance. From time to time, clouds are surrounding us, as if they want to dance with us.

To be honest, I'm kind of sick of climbing, but Mamarmot promised me something sweet up in the ridge we can see in front of us. We finally reach it and we are all amazed by an amazing view towards Bâlea Lake. My parents say that this place is called Fereastra Bâlei, or something near it. Finally, the short break for a sweet snack. No Mamarmot, dried fruits don't count as sweets, you need to try better than that.

I understand we need to reach Capra Lake and according to the map we need to go to the right, but to the left, through the fog, we see something that looks like a lake. But we follow the map and soon I find myself on a narrow path. My folks tell me that it's the first time I am walking on the ridge of Făgăraș. How cool!

But wait, are we climbing again? Oh well, they told me Capra Lake is very beautiful.

Soon we reach Iezerul Caprei Peak.

From here we finally see Capra Lake and we start to descent towards it, first on a steep slope, covered in scree, then the slope starts to straighten a bit and softly winds through the valley.

We reach Capra Lake where we take a snack break and, of course, Mamarmot wants to take some pictures. She always drives me mad with her pictures!

We start to climb again, my Gooood..are we there yet? Mamarmot says that soon we'll be seeing something very nice! We'll see about that.

We reach a viewpoint where the picture from the map is identical with what lies before our eyes. How nice! Let's take a picture of it! We did the same in Tigăilor Saddle and Măcin mountains, but the one from Măcin didn't look so good. After a few minutes we finally take a good picture and we continue further.

To the left we see a path and below, a big valley covered in snow. I tell my parents that I want there too. Snow in the middle of the summer is not quite common, right? But up to the summit first! The ascent is quite smooth, and it seems there are only a few more steps to our destination. We arrive under the peak but my folks tell me they don't agree for me to climb it. Really? I worked my feet off up here only for this? Yes, it seems a bit tricky, but it's not the first time I climb on rocks. Still, dad tells me I am not ready yet so Mamarmot takes me by the hand and off we go to Capra Peak, but dad turns around and goes back to climb on Buteanu. That's not fair!

But look, we have an amazing view from Capra Peak as well. We reunite on the Capra Peak and we return from where we left. Arriving in Văiuga Saddle, I see the snow again and I tell my folks I was to descend through here. I won't take no for an answer. We start a really cool descent on rocks..I love it! Dad stays with me, explaining the moves I need to make, what to hold on to, what to step on. Mamarmot is ahead of us, as usual, to take pictures. She always like to be a bit ahead.

We find Mamarmot down at the base of the valley, staring at something on the mountainside. And then I see it too! It's a chamois! I finally see a chamois! I saw it only in the photos made by my parents but she is here now and very close to us! I try to get closer, but she is not bothered by me, being too busy to play in the snow.

She's frolicking, her antlers through the snow, lifting it and throwing it further. Such amazing creatures!

While walking through the Văiuga Valley, spring takes the place of winter. Everything around us is sprinkled with colorful flowers. My knee starts hurting. Maybe Mamarmot is right, maybe sometimes my steps are too big, or maybe its from the descent through the valley, but still, it hurts. Dad says he would carry me- on his shoulders on the even path. I know I am big now and I hurt him, but I could really use a break.

But wait, what is that over there? A maaaarmoooot...until now I saw only a marmot's tail, as she was too fast for me. I saw so many beautiful things today!

We slowly head to the end of our trail.

We soon arrive at Bâlea Lake, which is way too noisy and crowded. Still, that tunnel pretzel looks good. It seems it's called Kurtoscolac. I think I really deserver something sweet after all this walking.

The last part of our walk is not nice. We need to cross through the tunnel. It would've been nice if no cars were here but the cars queue looks like a big sausage and inside the tunnel you can't breathe. We hurry a bit to get rid of these smells faster.

We arrive at the point we left this morning and I'm going to say goodbye to Molda. It was such a beautiful day!

At the end of the day, Marmot asks me: "Mom, tell me another story about a place we've never been to?"
"Let me tell you about a lake where many marmots live.."

Marmot statistics

Joy

Beautiful weather, the colors around us and the good and bad jokes keep our spirit up.

Sights

The trail is breathtaking, with green paths covered in flowers, that open viewpoints to blue lakes, ridges covered by dancing clouds and snowy valleys.

Difficulty

The trail is not an easy one and the marmot must be helped on some segments that involve rock climbing and descent.

Boredom

It appears on the segments where we climb a troublesome slope. How do we chase it away? Games (Word games, I spy with my little eye), stories (something very interesting for the marmot).

Drama

The longest the ascent with no sight of the destination, the often drama will appear. Luckily, this trail has a very diverse set of beautiful viewpoints and doesn't leave too much room for drama.